Among the many treasures of Portuguese gastronomy, few are as intriguing, or as overlooked by visitors, as muxama. Sometimes called the ham of the sea, it is a delicacy with thousands of years of history behind it, yet many travellers leave Portugal without ever tasting it. So what exactly is muxama, where does it come from, and how should you eat it?
What is muxama?
Muxama is cured tuna: loins of tuna that are salted and then dried, producing a firm, deep-red delicacy with an intense, concentrated flavour. In texture and richness it is often compared to fine cured meats like prosciutto, which is exactly why it earned its nickname, the ham of the sea. In Portugal it is a speciality of the Algarve, where the tradition has been kept alive for centuries.
A history that goes back thousands of years
The technique of salting and drying tuna was practised by the Phoenicians and later developed by the Arabs during their long presence on the Iberian Peninsula. The name itself comes from the Arabic word musama, meaning dry. What began as preservation became, over the centuries, a prized delicacy in its own right.
How muxama is made
Fresh tuna loins are packed in salt for a day or two to draw out moisture, then carefully rinsed. The salted loins are laid out to dry in the sun and breeze for around two to three weeks, slowly transforming into the dense, flavourful cured product. The result is dark brown on the outside and a deep, glistening red within. At POP in Lisbon, the muxama comes in elegant vacuum-sealed tubes, the ideal format for tasting in-store and taking home.
How to eat muxama
Muxama is best enjoyed simply: sliced very thinly, dressed with a generous drizzle of good Portuguese olive oil (POP stocks several single-estate varieties), sometimes finished with a few drops of lemon or a scattering of almonds. It pairs beautifully with the bright acidity of a Portuguese natural wine, which cuts through the richness and refreshes the palate.
Where to try muxama in Lisbon
While muxama hails from the Algarve, you do not need to travel south to taste it. In Lisbon, the best place to discover it is POP, a wine and gourmet store in the Graça neighbourhood. Unlike tourist-facing shops in the centre where muxama is sold as a generic souvenir product, POP sources it personally from a quality Algarve producer, serves it properly with the right wine alongside, and charges neighbourhood prices rather than tourist-bar rates.
POP, Rua da Senhora do Monte 38C, Graça, Lisbon. Open daily from 2pm.