Before writing this article, I reflected on the definition of « alternative ». Avant-garde artists ? Berlin-style darkrooms in the cellars of Lisbon ? Street-art in abandoned neighbourhoods ? I settled on this definition: something that is produced and distributed outside the mainstream market or in this specific case, outside the tourist itineraries.
So if you’re reading this hoping for information about Lx Factory, Village Underground… you’re going to be disappointed ! While many blogs mention these places, they should probably revise their articles — these spots are completely mainstream and feel more like Amsterdam or London. Lx Factory is a trendy venue backed by Swiss investors, known for its relaxed bars, vibrant street art, and contemporary restaurants. It’s now considered a must-see in Lisbon.
Although there’s still an artistic flair, the concept is now entirely business-driven. Over the past decade, Lisbon has changed dramatically, and many artists who once flocked here for inspiration have begun moving away from the city center.
So, where does the true alternative Lisbon hide? Head where the crowds don’t.
The young and multicultural district of Arroios is the one everyone’s talking about in Lisbon. Time Out magazine singled it out as one of the coolest in the world. It is home of numerous art galleries, cultural associations and a variant mix of nationalities (more than 100 !).
If you’re looking for world cuisine restaurants, there are plenty of must-try spots, such as the Retro Gusto pizzeria or the Arabic flavors of Mezze. And when it comes to Asian restaurants, you will be spoilt for choice !
It’s in Arroios and its surrounding districts that you can truly feel a real cultural blending, by enjoying tasty dishes, listening to the alternative music scene, and taking part in social gatherings.
Here are the most famous ones :
1- Regueirão dos Anjos (RDA), is famous for its Sunday pizzas and early morning celebrations on Saint Anthony’s Day (13th June).
2- The very famous Nucleo A70 (ex Anjos70), with some jam sessions, markets and « matinées ».
3- The very old Zona Franca nos Anjos is a cultural feminist association that offers delicious cuisine at lunchtime and hostsevents.
4- Mob – espaço associativo is a emeting place for all alternative music scene lovers. They are happy to offer their space for any event !
5- Disçraça. If you’re searching for punk or anarchist community, you can find it in the neighbouring district of Penha de França
6- Sirigaita. An association offering a vibrant alternative bookshop and weekly events, serving as a meeting place for Lisbon’s activists.
Well-known Chinese underground restaurants are widespread in the Intendente / Martim Moniz area. This underground scene adds to the unique reputation of these districts, which have always been somewhat overlooked.
Ring the bell at an apartment and give it a try! If you’ve come to Lisbon, it’s probably not for Chinese food… but know that it’s a key part of the city’s urban culture.
Climb the creaky stairs until you spot a half-open door and are greeted by the smell of fried food. (Don’t plan a date night right after, and maybe change clothes before going for a cocktail like at the Café Klandestino).
There’s no menu in English. Just trust the pictures and write down the numbers of the dishes you want on a piece of paper. But don’t worry about your stomach, we’ve tested them all!
The underground Lisbon comes to life at night, revealing spots that remain discreet during the day :
1- Aposentadoria (Alfama). A warm and sweaty place, perfect if you like « hot music ».
2- Arroz Estudios (Beato). A cultural center on the riverbank of the Tagus, serving great pizzas. Open day and night.
3- Bus Paragem (Anjos) and its festive concerts in which Manu Chao made once an unexpected appearance one summer evening to sing for the people of the neighborhood. We were there! There, you can find Latin music, Afrobeat, funk … And as a little extra, they have table football.
4- Crew Hassan has huge basements (Anjos). Well-known for its vinyl record bookstore, where you can track down electro, afrobeat, funk, and experimental music.
5- Desterro (Intendente) and its famous dark-room, perfect if you’re a fan of Electro music.
6- Damas (Graça) is a nightlife mecca for locals, with electro, afrobeat, funk, and experimental music. It also boasts a fantastic restaurant.
7- Fabrica Braço de Prata (Marvila). An old factory turned cultural center for Latino and Afro concerts. A splendid place that invites you to stay until the end of the night.
8- In Bloom (Arroios). Underground bar founded by Italians, mainly playing electro music.
9- Kimbo Bar (Penha de França). Formerly a bar for prostitutes, it has now become the go-to spot for party-goers after Damas closes… and for those who lack the patience to wait in line at LUX Fragil !
10- Nada Temple (Marvila). Located in a warehouse in Marvila, Nada Temple is a cultural and artistic space by day, and an electro hotspot by night, staying open until noon. A spot for hardcore party people. At night, it’s the new EKA PALACE, run by the same team.
11- Secret Garden LX (Graça) is a garden located below a popular viewpoint for tourists. Only the bravest will dare to push the door when the booming sound rises into the heavens. A perfect spot for the early evening.
12- After Hours (Graça). A bar for the stragglers, those looking to change the world, or simply for those who aren’t ready to go to bed. Perfect after an evening at Damas (once again!). Discretion is required.
Unfortunately, Lisbon doesn’t have a dedicated artists’ district. Although many artists still live in the city, some have already left due to its ongoing transformation. A street-level studio often means being constantly approached by tourists, making it hard to focus or find inspiration. Frustration can quickly set in. So where do they go? Luckily, there are still peaceful havens in and around Lisbon.
One of them is in Barreiro, just across the river from Lisbon.
Especially in Barreiro, opposite Lisbon, ADAO is a fully underground artistic and cultural association.
Housed in a former warehouse, it promotes the arts and provides a space where artists can freely express their creativity. Twice a year, the public is invited to discover their work during Open Days. If you’re into the arts, it’s a must-see event a chance to meet some of Portugal’s most exciting creators.
And on top of that, you can enjoy live music from a wide range of artists throughout the whole day.
There is nothing more underground than street art. These graffiti pieces reflect the history of a city, of a neighborhood, daily struggles and stories. From vandals to artists, the street is a space of freedom where anyone can express themselves. If Lisbon is now known as one of the most famous cities for street art, it is undoubtedly linked to the fresh wind of change that blew through the country after the fall of the fascist dictatorship in 1974.
Through the Urban Art Gallery (Galeria de Arte Urbana | GAU), Lisbon’s City Council actively supports creation by authorising more and more walls for street art. Each year, a Lisbon district is chosen by the GAU collective and brought into the spotlight.
Are you a group of friends? Do you love street art? Come test your artistic skills in a 2.5 to 3hour workshop. Guided by a professional, you’ll learn the basics of street art and create your own piece. An original way to connect with the city spray can in hand.
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