History of Lisbon #3

The feast of Corpus Christi in Lisbon

On the Thursday after Pentecost, 60 days after Easter, Lisbon celebrates the feast of Corpus Christi

Instituted by the French Pope Urban IV in 1264, the Solenidade do Santíssimo Corpo e Sangue de Cristo (Solemnity of the Blessed Sacrament of the Blood and Body of Christ) or Corpus Christi is a public holiday in Portugal. It is the largest procession in the city and was probably the most magnificent in ancient times. In Lisbon, Catholic festivals are celebrated with fervour but this goes far beyond the religious aspect. They are part of the age-old traditions of the Lisbon people and are closely linked to the history of the city. The Corpus Christi procession became very popular in the 15th century and very quickly became an opportunity for the wealthy classes and the various guilds to display their wealth and prestige. It was an ostentatious celebration.

Corpus Christi: Joao I under the pallium (by Jaime Martins Barata).
Corpus Christi: Joao I under the pallium (by Jaime Martins Barata).

A Catholic procession, tinged with paganism.

In the time of king Joao I, a special place was reserved for St George, once the patron saint of Portugal. The victory over the Castilians was still vivid in Portuguese minds. A « Holy Warrior » in armour was thus carried on a white horse. He was called the Iron Man. The guilds and the people of Lisbon were brought to the fore because of their unwavering support for the King. The guilds, with their banners unfurled from the House of 24, rode on richly decorated floats : a castle, a dragon for the shoemakers’ float, a boat for the calf makers. Some processions featured devils, witches, jesters…

Then finally came the religious brotherhoods, carried by the hymns of St Thomas Aquinas. The music was played by bugles and led by Africans, who at the time were called the blacks of St George : Cibávit eos ex ádipe fruménti, allelúia: et de petra, melle saturávit eos, allelúia, allelúia, allelúia. Ps. Exsultáte Deo, adiutóri nostro: iubiláte Deo Iacob.Glória Patri… Cibávit eos… The diplomat José da Cunha Brochado summed up the feast of Corpus Christi in these words : « To see Lisbon in one go, I watched the Corpus Christi procession ». The feast of Corpus Christi was a ruinous celebration in its time. In addition to the cost of the floats and costumes, the streets were richly decorated by the city. Flowers were placed on the ground and the street was covered with awnings. The balconies were covered with gold tapestries and silk banners.

O preto de Sao Jorge during the Corpus Christi ceremony
O preto de Sao Jorge.

A procession in the service of the King.

The 18th century in Lisbon was marked by the advent of the reign of Joao V and the Baroque. The absolute king wanted to make the feast of Corpus Christi a propaganda ceremony for his greater prestige. He completely reorganised the procession, making it hierarchical and rigid, a far cry from the chaotic Corpus Christi of past centuries. Pagan symbols were banned, as well as Africans and women. At the time of Joao V, Corpus Christi was solemn and sumptuous.

On 12 May 1717, the Secretary of State Diogo de Mendonça Côrte-Real wrote to the Lisbon City Council: « […] the procession must not have heifers, giants, snakes, dragons, grass carpets, chariots or anything similar that represents a corporation. No dances, nor the presence of Moors accompanying St. George. The pallium should not be made of wool, a richer fabric should be used ». Thus, in remodelling Corpus Christi, King Joao V reveals his own vision of the organisation of his power, that of a State based on the all-powerful Church and on his Majesty.

Corpus Christi procession at the time of Joao V. 1587 santons made by the famous Diamantino Tojal.
Corpus Christi procession at the time of Joao V. 1587 santons made by the famous Diamantino Tojal.

The feast of Corpus Christi nowadays

Although the grandiose is no longer the order of the day in Lisbon, Corpus Christi remains a highly celebrated religious festival where the ancient rules are still respected. For many European countries, this old tradition has (almost) disappeared. What remains today for the most curious is the possibility of attending the secular procession in Lisbon on Thursday 3 June 2021.

If you are interested in discovering Lisbon through the prism of religion, you can book a visit with us, which I am sure will be very enriching.

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