Lisbon is a city of viewpoints. Of all of them, the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte in Graça is widely considered the finest. And there is one detail that makes it even better: a small wine and gourmet shop, just a hundred metres away, that will send you up the hill with exactly the right glass in your hand, at prices you will not find at any rooftop bar in the city centre.
The Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
Perched at the top of Graça, the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte offers a panorama that takes in almost the entire city: the Castelo de São Jorge, the rooftops of Alfama, the wide curve of the Tagus, the 25 de Abril bridge in the distance. It is less known than the Miradouro da Graça or the Portas do Sol, which means it is often quieter, and the view, many locals insist, is the best in Lisbon. Sunset here is an event. There is no bar, no waiter, no entrance fee, just the view and the breeze.
The missing piece: a glass of wine
POP, a wine and gourmet store on the Rua da Senhora do Monte, is just a hundred metres from the viewpoint. Owner Elliot will help you choose something that suits your taste at retail prices: a crisp white like Fiuza Lavasas, a lightly sparkling pet-nat like Raza, or a fresh rosé. And POP lends glasses to customers heading to the miradouro, so you take a proper glass up the hill and bring it back when you are done. A small detail that makes an enormous difference.
Make an evening of it
Arrive at POP in the late afternoon. Let Elliot guide you to the right bottle, pick up something to eat alongside it: a few slices of muxama from the Algarve drizzled with olive oil, a small wedge of cheese, or a tin of Tricana sardines. Rent a glass, open the bottle, and walk up the hill. Pour your wine, find a spot on the wall, and let Lisbon do the rest. It costs almost nothing. It is just Lisbon, at its very best.
Also: Portuguese natural wine: a beginner’s guide
POP, Rua da Senhora do Monte 38C, Graça, Lisbon. Open daily from 2pm.